• A free day
•  A beer (Or beverage of choice, We recommend this for the finale)
• 5" Angle grinder (1mm cutting disc and grinding disc)
• Verniers (Optional to make it easier)
• Drill and 15mm drill bit or Step Drill
• Die-grinder with Burr
• Belt linisher
• Mig Welder
• Set Square
• Spanners
• Scriber

Start off by removing the existing brackets on the cross member, easiest way to do this is with a gouging tip on an oxy torch, but for those playing at home that don't have the above next best is using the angle grinder, We use a 1mm disc and cut the brackets down the sides and then using a die grinder remove as much of the weld as possible and knock the brackets off, Patience will get you your results. Once the brackets are removed, use a belt linisher to get a nicer finish/prep for the weld zone (Tip: you can also use a flap disc on a grinder for this) 

Once prepped, Using some verniers or a ruler - Measure 44mm (1600/510) or 40mm (180B/610) from the top of the cross member from the inside of the crossmember bush mount and then using a square from the backside of the cross member scribe a reference line.

Next step is to align brackets - Easy step is the smallest bracket is the outside and the largest is the inside. Align them as shown, and using your old bolts you can bolt them to the arm. You want to aim to have them all in the middle of the slots, (Tip: keep them loose-ish and then you can lift the arm upright so that all the brackets are as square as possible)

Slide the arm into the cross member and line the inside of the outer bracket with the line you have scribed (Tip: you may need to give the second bracket in from the outside a little tickle with the grinder so it fits into the cross member nicely) Make sure the arm is nice and snug and all the brackets are as tight to the cross member as possible and tack weld in, we tack weld all the brackets from the top and also in the bottom corners to stop them from moving in any way.

Weld all the brackets to the cross member, we weld the outsides in then stitch weld the insides of the brackets and fully weld the outsides of the brackets, we aim for a 7/8 mm bead. Clean up all the spatter and welds off the brackets to prepare for the adjuster block and weld in top hat boss.

Using one of the adjuster bolts in the kit and the 10mm stainless bolt screw the adjuster block onto the stainless bolt until you see the end of the bolt flush with the adjuster block, slide the main bolt into the brackets and pull the main bolt towards the bottom of the cross member till it bottoms out in the bracket, you can then tack and weld the adjuster block to the bracket (Tip: Before you fully weld the adjuster block onto the bracket, make sure the main bolt travels freely up and down the stainless bolt, This will make sure you have correct alignment and don't have any binding issues in the future)  

On the outer brackets (Toe Adjustment) Put one of the main bolts in place and line up the slot in the bolt so it lines up with the slot in the bracket, Once lined up using a long center punch, carefully line up the center punch so its parallel with the slot in the arm, using a hammer punch into the cross member so you can drill your hole for the weld in top hat bush. 

Using a 15mm drill bit or step drill, Drill the hole untill you can slide the top hat bush in.

Tip: Put the main bolt in the bracket and then place the top hat bush in the arm and screw the stainless bolt into the top hat bush to insure you are lined up with the slot, Tack weld in the bush and make sure the bolt slides freely up and down the bracket, Weld the bush in and clean up the cross member ready for paint or powder coating.

Final Step - Crack yourself a beer (Or beverage of your choice), Fit it, get a wheel alignment and get the back out!!