EHK Installation Guide

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The following hints & suggestions are designed to assist in fitting the Enhanced Handling Kit (EHK). We’ll continue adding to these fitting pages as time permits. The following suggestions are for the installation of the SR20DET engine and start with a fully stripped engine bay. If you are doing a full restoration these mods are best done before painting the engine bay.

We will also add pages on removing tabs & filling holes, cutting holes for throttle cable, wiring harness etc. There are various ways to tackle fitting an engine. We prefer to assemble the engine & trans on the crossmembers and lower the car over the assembly. This method is easy to do and ensures no damage to paint or body. It also pays to arrange heater pipes and fittings, the lower engine harness mods, brake pipes etc, before the assembly is installed.

DO IT ONCE, and make it easy on yourself. We know of people that have had their engines in & out like a yo-yo to get the desired result. Think carefully on what mods you want & plan your procedure before you start. There are many ways of going about this job & most people have their own opinion. We can only show you our methods. If you require assistance or have queries don’t hesitate to ask. Suggestions and constructive criticism are most welcome. Enjoy your project & accept the fact you will have some headaches to overcome. But it’s worth the effort.

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Crush Tube Installation

The crush tube is an important part of the conversion, adding extra strength to the crossmember mounting points. As you can see in the pic, the original points are not that robust. Locate the existing hole in the chassis rail & insert a pointed punch in the center of the hole. Align the punch as accurately as possible and hit with a hammer to mark the rail.

Correct tools make the job go easy. Get yourself a multi stepdrill as shown.You will have much use for this tool as your project progresses. They make life easy. Make sure the mark punched from underneath is centered in the chassis rail. Remark with center punch and cut the correct size hole for the crush tube to fit neatly in the hole.

After cutting the crush tube holes smooth off the hole edge with a file or sander. Make sure to vacuum or blow off with air the swarf residue including inside the chassis rails. Rust proof cuts & inside chassis rails. Dont scimp here!

Correct position for crush tube when installed. Tubes are supplied to correct length but due to variations it pays to check the depth. Tube should have approx 0.5mm (0.020") crush. File end of tube if required for correct fit.

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EHK conversion engine mounts

This pic shows the RH engine mounting and demonstrates how the original SR mount fits neatly on the modified crossmember. Note! Stabiliser bar tucked up behind the sump and in front of the crossmember and the original 1600 splash guard refitted in the original position.

Fitting engine mounts to the cross member is quite a simple procedure if done correctly. The pics shown were taken on a proto type cross member with standard factory 40mm fitting slots. The early type is shown to assist clients with earlier EHKs that may need to remove transmissions. We have increased the slot size to 45mm to assist in easier fitting. Shortening the long pins on the SR mount would of course make this procedure very easy. As would removing the lower tabs. We do not believe this is needed. The method used is similar to the way that some other Nissan engines must be installed. If ever necessary to remove the transmission this method makes an easy job of it. Always remove the LH mount as it drops the exhaust as well when engine is lowered. The steering idler bracket is best removed from the chassis rail ( no need to disconnect the track rod) to give additional clearance for removal of the transmission.

If engine is in vehicle support the engine under the bell housing with a trolley jack. SR Mounts are different for R & L. They are marked as such. Install the RH mount on the engine bracket & leave loose.

Ensure the locating lug is at the top of the slot and located correctly. Note the lower unused hole is for locating FJ & L series mountings with different mounts. Do not fully tighten the mount at this time.

With engine & trans supported under the bell housing,jack up engine to just enough obtain sufficient clearance. Place the LH mount into engine bracket & crossmember slot.

Fit nut on to top of mount to hold it in position

Lower the engine slowly and just enough so that the lower part of the mount is now just resting on the crossmember. Place a nut on the engine mount to protect the thread on the mounting. Note the amount of slack at the top.

With a prybar lever the mount down the slot. Just enough to pop the locating lug into position. This step may not be necessary with later EHKs due to the extra length of the slot on both sides of the crossmember.

LH mount shown with lug in position.This is not difficult and with the extra 5mm longer slot in the latest Xmembers is easier to do.

Now lower the engine fully onto the crossmember making sure the top locating pin is in position. Fit washers and tighten both sides of the mountings

Nearly done. If done insitu just resecure the transmount and bolt up the steering idler & you are finished.

This pic shows the current mounting as compared to early type in pic 2. Note the extra length in slot. Make sure the mounts are equal both sides before securing

• Engine won’t align with mounts: Check both locating lugs are seated; confirm crossmember slot length (later EHK uses 45 mm slots).
• Transmission fouls during removal: Remove steering idler bracket temporarily for extra clearance (no need to disconnect track rod).
• Uneven mount seating or vibration: Verify mounts are equal both sides before final tightening; re-torque after a short shakedown.
• Corrosion risk: Ensure holes are deburred and rails rust-proofed inside & out before final assembly.

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